Mangoes: A Mirror to India's Diverse Tastes and Traditions
As summer temperatures rise across India, so does the season of the mango. This fruit, often called the king of fruits, holds a special place in Indian culture. Beyond its sweet taste, the mango serves as a lens through which to understand regional diversity, agricultural practices, and changing consumer habits.
India is home to over a thousand mango varieties, each with its own unique flavour, texture, and aroma. Among the most well-known are Alphonso, Dashehri, Langda, Chausa, and Safeda. However, lesser-known varieties like Gulab Jamun and Rataul offer distinct experiences. Gulab Jamun, a small green mango grown near Shahjahanpur in Uttar Pradesh, is prized for its fibreless pulp and intense sweetness. Rataul, named after a village near Delhi, is celebrated for its fragrance but remains largely unavailable in urban markets.
This disparity between local and commercial varieties reflects broader changes in India's mango economy. The shift from 'sucking' mangoes—eaten directly by peeling—to 'table' mangoes—sliced and served—mirrors changing lifestyles and market demands. Growers now favour varieties with longer shelf lives and better appearance, often at the cost of taste.
In his book Mangifera Indica: A Biography of the Mango, author Sopan Joshi explores these themes. He writes, “Mango is to Indians what the weather is to the English. The more we talk about it, the more it becomes our mirror.” The book documents stories from growers, sellers, and consumers across the country, highlighting how mango cultivation is intertwined with local customs, economies, and identities.
Mangoes are not just a fruit; they are a cultural artefact. Every region in India has its own prized varieties, often known only to locals. For instance, Bihar's Biju mango is celebrated in oral traditions but rarely found in markets. This regional specificity underscores India's agricultural diversity and the need to preserve indigenous varieties.
As consumers, we can appreciate mangoes not only for their taste but also for the stories they carry. By supporting local growers and trying rare varieties, we contribute to sustaining this rich heritage. This mango season, consider exploring beyond the familiar Alphonso. You might discover a new favourite—and a deeper connection to India's many republics of the mango.
