Rising gold and silver prices threaten Vadasery's centuries-old temple jewellery craft
Vadasery, a neighbourhood in Nagercoil, Tamil Nadu, has been home to a unique craft for centuries: the making of temple jewellery. This handcrafted jewellery, known for its intricate motifs inspired by deities, nature, and animals, has long been prized by classical dancers and temple devotees alike. However, the relentless rise in gold and silver prices is now threatening the livelihood of the artisans who sustain this tradition.
According to local artisans, the history of temple jewellery in Vadasery dates back to the 9th century AD. Originally, pieces were made entirely of gold, embedded with precious stones and uncut diamonds. Over time, due to increasing gold prices, the composition shifted to 75% silver and 25% gold, with kemp (garnet) and glass stones. The process begins with handmade silver moulds, which are filled with wax to secure the stones. The piece is then finished with gold leaf and gold coating.
Nagalingam, a craftsman with 35 years of experience, explained that the work was historically commissioned by chieftains of Ramnad and Chettinad as offerings for deities. Even today, artisans from Vadasery are invited to Chennai and Bengaluru when large-scale temple ornaments are needed.
Folklorist A.K. Perumal noted that the craft flourished under the Chola kingdom. Initially, temple jewellery was made for deities, kings, and devadasis (temple dancers). After the devadasi system was abolished, the craft reached a wider audience, especially classical dancers. However, the recent surge in gold and silver prices has led to a decline in orders.
Anand Krishnan, an artisan with over 15 years of experience, highlighted the financial strain: a full jewellery set that cost around ₹1.5 lakh a year ago is now sold for ₹3 lakh. The hip belt (oddiyanam), which was sold for ₹50,000 last month, now costs ₹80,000. “Rapid fluctuations make it extremely difficult to calculate costs,” he said.
As prices rise, many dancers are turning to imitation jewellery. Krishnan noted that the industry is struggling to recover, as artisans try to balance escalating costs without compromising on quality. A complete set requires at least two months to make, as all cuts and designs are handcrafted, making the product unique but expensive.
Around 50 families and 300 craftsmen in Vadasery depend on temple jewellery making for their livelihood. While the craft has secured a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, manufacturers believe greater public exposure is essential for its survival.
