Record-breaking climber Nirmal Purja dies in Broad Peak avalanche

Nirmal Purja, the celebrated Nepali-British mountaineer who conquered all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres in a record time, has died in an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan, his expedition company and family confirmed on Wednesday.

Nepal's Prime Minister, Balendra Shah, confirmed the deaths of six Nepalese and four foreign climbers in the Karakoram mountain range. "The history of their courage, dedication, and contributions will always remain inspiring," he said in a statement.

Purja's older brother, Kamal, wrote on social media: "It is with the heaviest heart that I share the devastating news that my beloved younger brother, Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja, and the other climbers are no longer with us. Although our hearts are broken, we are incredibly proud of you. Your legacy will live forever."

Purja was leading a multinational expedition attempting to climb Broad Peak, the world's 12th-highest mountain at 8,047 metres. The avalanche struck earlier this week, triggering an extensive search-and-rescue operation by Pakistani authorities and local climbing groups.

Pakistani officials said the bodies of three climbers—American Mallory Geis, Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy of Oman, and Pur Bahadur Gurung of Nepal—had been recovered so far. Naila Kiani, a spokesperson for the Alpine Club of Pakistan, told the BBC's Newshour programme that rescuers had seen other bodies but had not yet reached them. She added that the club would announce deaths only after bodies are formally recovered, but "we are fearing them all dead."

Kiani, who has climbed with Purja on several expeditions, praised his leadership. "He was a very experienced climber and fearless," she said. She described the rescue efforts as challenging due to the extreme altitude and treacherous terrain.

Purja, also known as Nims, rose to global fame in 2019 when he climbed all 14 eight-thousanders—mountains exceeding 8,000 metres—in just 189 days, shattering the previous record by more than seven years. His journey was documented in the Netflix film "14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible" (2021), which brought his mountaineering exploits to a wide audience.

Born in Nepal, Purja served in the British military for 16 years, including 10 years in the special forces. He was awarded an MBE in 2018 for his contributions to high-altitude mountaineering. He was also the first Gurkha to climb Everest while serving in the British military. He lived in Hampshire, England, with his wife and three-year-old daughter.

UK Defence Secretary Wes Streeting paid tribute on X: "Incredibly sad to learn of the passing of Nirmal (Nims) Purja and those he was climbing with. He was an inspirational man who served in our Armed Forces for many years—and whose incredible mountaineering adventures are known the world over."

In his final post on Monday, Purja revealed that his decision to attempt Broad Peak was unplanned. "Initially, the plan was to climb just G2," he wrote, referring to Gasherbrum II, another peak in the Karakoram. But he realised that a successful ascent of Broad Peak would bring him within one mountain of becoming the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice without supplemental oxygen. "This wasn't planned. But opportunities don't scream: they whisper to those already working in silence," he wrote. "Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down. I take zero mountains for granted."

Broad Peak is notorious for its difficulty and has claimed dozens of lives since its first ascent in 1957 by an Austrian expedition. One of its deadliest years was 2013, when at least six climbers perished. The current search operation is continuing, with teams braving harsh conditions to locate the remaining climbers.