Nirmal Purja, world-record mountaineer, confirmed dead in Broad Peak avalanche

Renowned mountaineer Nirmal Purja has been confirmed dead in an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan, according to his expedition company. Elite Expeditions announced the news on social media, saying it had confirmed with “profound sadness and immense heartbreak” that Purja died in Thursday’s avalanche. The company also stated that none of the other nine members of the expedition had survived.

Purja, a Nepali-born climber and former British Army soldier, rose to global prominence in 2019 when he climbed all 14 of the world’s highest peaks in just over six months, smashing the previous record. He was leading a multinational climbing group on Broad Peak, which stands at 8,047 metres (26,400 feet) in the Karakoram range.

Pakistani officials have recovered the bodies of three climbers from the expedition: American Mallory Geis, Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy from Oman, and Pur Bahadur Gurung from Nepal. Rescue teams had been searching for the climbers after the avalanche struck on Thursday. The confirmed death of Purja was also acknowledged by Nepal’s Prime Minister Balendra Shah, who said on social media that the tragic death of six Nepalese and four other foreign climbers, including Purja, had “shocked us.”

Purja, also known as Nims, served in the British military for 16 years, including ten years in the special forces. He was awarded an MBE by the late Queen in 2018 for his achievements in extreme high-altitude mountaineering. He was also the first Gurkha to climb Everest while serving in the British military.

In his last public post on X, published on Monday, Purja had said he initially planned to climb only Gasherbrum II, another peak in the Karakoram range. But he realised that if he also climbed Broad Peak, he would have just one more mountain to conquer to become the first person in history to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice, without oxygen. “This wasn’t planned,” he wrote. “But opportunities don’t scream: they whisper to those already working in silence.” He also said, “Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down. I take zero mountains for granted.”

Broad Peak is considered one of the more challenging climbs in the Karakoram range. The first successful ascent was in 1957 by an Austrian expedition. Since then, many climbers have reached the summit, but dozens have lost their lives in attempts. In 2013, at least six fatalities were recorded on the mountain.

Purja’s death is a significant loss to the mountaineering community. He was an inspiration to many for his remarkable determination and physical achievement. The full details of the avalanche and the recovery efforts are still emerging, and authorities are continuing their work in the area.