Chennai's beachside food: The sea's secret flavour

For generations, Chennai's beaches have been more than just a place to enjoy the sea breeze. They are a destination for food lovers, offering a distinct culinary experience that is as much about the setting as the preparation. From the tangy maanga pattani sundal to the fiery fish fry and the fluffy cotton candy, beachside eating is an integral part of the city's culture.

The coastline presents a vast spread for every appetite. At Pazhaverkadu, fresh prawns and crabs are a highlight; Kasimedu buzzes with the organised chaos of its fish market; Pattinapakkam is known for its rows of meen saapadu (fish meal) messes; and Besant Nagar has seen the rise of modern food trucks. Each offers something unique, but all share the common ingredient of the sea air.

For many residents, a trip to the beach is incomplete without these snacks. Jayashree, a 56-year-old who visited on an August evening, recalls how the beach brings back memories. "One of the main reasons we look forward to coming to the beach is for the snacks," she says, laughing, as she enjoys raw mango slices dusted with chilli powder. As a child, her father was cautious about buying beach food, fearing it might be unhygienic. "So instead, we would make him buy us toys," she says. Now, her father sits nearby, savouring a packet of pattani sundal.

Younger visitors are also discovering the appeal. Rajeeth Nisha and Kirijha, both 23, from Karaikudi and Madurai, have made fish fry a part of their post-college beach ritual. "We love the fish fry here. Because we come as a group, we enjoy it more," they say.

For Nisha, a 31-year-old resident of Kodungaiyur, the beach is a monthly family outing. She comes with her husband and two children, and fish is a mandatory snack. "At home, I make the same things, but we all eat from separate plates. Here, we buy one big fish or one plate of prawns and everyone shares. It's nice," she says.

What gives beachside fish fry its distinctive taste? At the Alli Muthu fish stall on Marina Beach, rows of vanjaram, kilangan, kelathi, nethili, paarai and kanava are coated with a bright red marinade before hitting the pan. Ganesh, who has run the stall for 30 years, having started as a child when his mother managed it, says the secret lies in the podi – a blend of several masalas. "Chicken masala, fish fry masala, garam masala…," he lists nearly 10 ingredients that are hard to remember, let alone recreate. Yet, the recipe is only part of the answer.

A short distance away, bajji stalls present a cheerful sight. Long green chillies hang in bunches like thoranams, while sliced potatoes, raw bananas and onions wait to be dipped in batter and fried. The bajjis are crisp, with a batter that has the perfect consistency and a golden-brown hue. The accompanying chutney is equally popular, though recipes for 'beach-style chutney' online often fail to replicate the taste.

Perhaps that is because the flavour of beach food comes from more than just the masala. It is the combination of salt in the air, the sound of waves, sand underfoot, and the carefree spirit of people who come to the shore to relax. These elements cannot be bottled, making each bite a memory of the beach itself.