Avalanche on Broad Peak kills Nims Purja and two celebrated Nepali guides

In a tragic incident on Broad Peak, the world's 12th highest mountain, a large avalanche has claimed the lives of three prominent mountaineers, including the renowned climber Nirmal Purja, popularly known as Nims. Purja, 43, was leading an international team of 10 climbers when the avalanche struck. The other two deceased are Kili Pemba Sherpa, 46, and Pur Bahadur Gurung, both experienced guides from Nepal.

Purja was widely regarded as one of the finest high-altitude climbers of his generation. His record-breaking feats, including summiting all 14 eight-thousanders in a record six months and six days, had earned him global acclaim. Ben Ayers, a longtime Everest reporter for Outside Magazine, described Purja as "iconic and undisputedly amongst the best of his generation."

The two guides who died alongside him were equally accomplished. Kili Pemba Sherpa had just achieved the coveted Mountaineering Grand Slam in early July after completing the last of the 14 highest peaks, also known as eight-thousanders. Before that, he was part of the Nepali team, led by Purja, which completed the first winter ascent of K2 in January 2021. That historic climb was considered a landmark achievement, as K2, at 8,611 metres, was the only eight-thousander that had never been climbed in winter. It is known to be steeper, more unpredictable, and deadlier than Everest, which stands at 8,849 metres.

Those who knew Kili Pemba describe him as a humble and deeply dedicated guide, always prioritising the safety and well-being of his clients. He had summited Everest 15 times, and on two of those occasions, he guided double-leg amputees to the top. Gyanendra Shrestha, a government official who was at Base Camp during one of those climbs, recalled Kili Pemba's exceptional care and professionalism. "That was the toughest task for any guide, he did that with a lot of care," Shrestha said.

The deaths of Purja, Kili Pemba, and Gurung represent a significant loss to the mountaineering community. Their contributions to high-altitude climbing, particularly in promoting Nepali expertise and breaking barriers, have inspired many around the world. Rescue operations have been launched, but conditions on the mountain remain dangerous. Further details about the incident are expected to emerge as authorities investigate.